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For my 35th birthday Amie planned a three-day trip to Bighorn National Forest, about three hours west of us in Wyoming. The two of us haven’t been away on a trip together without the kiddos since Graham was born; five years! But just two days before our departure there was a severe storm warning all across Bighorn with a no-travel recommendation. Oh no!

Together we tossed together a local itinerary. First, a restful day in Rapid with a downtown hotel. Next some hiking and a lodge in the Black Hills. Lastly, an adventurous day skiing at a local ski mountain.

Day 1

The morning was a rush to prepare for the trip. I hadn’t anticipated how much there’d be to do and was a bit grumpy. We did want to prepare everything well for Amie’s mom to watch the kids for the whole three days.

When at last we departed, Amie and I had the space to reconnect outside Harriet & Oak before getting coffee and brunch. This was one of many, many times I was grateful to be her husband. What a gift!

After delicious acai bowls and a pour-over, we walked down to the Alex Johnson for check-in. On our way we met a homeless man named Collin and his son-in-law Matthew Arapahoe. We walked them to a Starbucks for a little coffee and food. I have not yet called the number, but Collin gave me his daughter Heather’s phone number so I could help him get a state ID. We left Collin somewhat disappointed (he also wanted cash) and walked next door to check in.

Before we departed for Crazy Horse Memorial we visited a couple shops downtown. A spice shop that was more professional than most we’ve seen and a cookie shop where we split an oatmeal raisin cookie.

I joked on the way that, given the choice between visiting Rushmore or Crazy Horse, I’d choose Crazy Horse every time. I hadn’t been to either yet. But I did not expect what I found.

The granite carving is epic. It’s the largest carved statue in the world. But I thought that was all we were there to see. Instead I discovered that the statue is actually only the beginning of the vision of Chief Henry Standing Bear and Korczak Ziolkowski. They set out to create an entire campus, with a university, a hospital, and an airstrip, that would serve the Lakota people and preserve their heritage. From early on it was clear to Korczak that he wouldn’t see the work finished, but he and his wife Ruth laid the foundation for the entire project, even if it takes multiple centuries. He didn’t even get to see the face completed, but so great was his sense of honor to build a memorial for an entire people that he turned down more lucrative work elsewhere and ran two other businesses to fund the early years.

We stayed at Crazy Horse until it closed, then drove ten minutes to Custer. It was a surreal experience shifting from a memorial honoring the Lakota tribe to a town honoring the U.S. colonel who attacked them. But that’s not why we came to Custer; we came for the food.

Amie had discovered Skogen Kitchen, a restaurant in the last series of nominations for a James Beard award. It’s easily the best restaurant in all of South Dakota. Somehow we’d gotten a reservation the day before–there were only about eight tables and none sat empty–and we were treated to a lovely meal. Amie’s favorite part was the espresso with a little sugar and a sliver of lemon peel.

Day 2

We slept in and had a quiet brunch at a local Australian coffee shop, then headed into the Black Hills. This time north since we were staying at Spearfish Canyon Lodge at the north end of the Black Hills.

We’d planned to go for a hike longer hike when we arrived but the weather became foggy and the snow piled up as we gained elevation. We chose to check in at the lodge early instead, but not before we stopped to enjoy the quiet snowfall.

After we checked into the lodge we found a shorter hike near the lodge. To Amie’s surprise there was a beautiful waterfall she didn’t even know existed!

When we returned to the lodge we noticed that a few more people had arrived. Wanting to have the hot tub to ourselves, we jumped in our swimsuits and headed to the outer deck. It’s exhilarating to walk onto a snowy deck in 20℉ weather with nothing but a swimsuit.

The warm soak made us hungry so we went straight to an early dinner after. Then it was time to break out my birthday present; a new board game called Sleeping Gods.

Day 3

After our second relaxing day it was time for adventure. To the ski slopes!

Neither of us have been skiing in twenty years and we were nervous. After we picked up brunch at a coffee shop in Lead, we headed over to get our ski rentals. It took less than ten minutes to get fitted and head to Terry Peak.

We started on the bunny hill and I thought for sure that I’d fall on my face. But we managed to get to the bottom without incident and the memories were flooding back. Overjoyed to be outside in the beauty and the exhilaration of skiing, I said “let’s go to the top!”

By the time we’d made it all the way down the mountain, I felt like no time had passed since I’d donned skis. Amie gave me several tips to improve my atrocious form and I was ready to move up to blue runs.

I’d thought we wouldn’t endure the full four hours until the lifts closed, but that’s exactly what we did. It was a perfect amount of time, there were almost no others on the slopes, and we had a spectacular time. I did crash once, but I was moving slowly and it was comical.

My birthday was the best staycation of all time. How I needed to get away with Amie for a few days of rest and adventure.